Issa has next summer all sewn up….. SS16 was awash with wearable white pieces, signature Issa draping, fluid prints in lime and lapis, intricate interlocking embellishment and back to black LBD’s. In short I loved the whole collection.
This season the collection was inspired by nature and repeating motifs. Creative Director, Jaime O’Hare commented ‘We started looking at organic fractal and geometric patterns, and there was this amazing sense of contradiction- we tend to think of nature as something soft and slightly haphazard, but the order and strict geometry of these repeating patterns offered a viewpoint that we wanted to explore’.
Working it in white.
A pure white palette opened the show beautifully. Layered panels of crisp white fabric gave the impression of effortless style, creating intriguing shapes but still remained wearable. Deep v-neck and backless garments with shawl effect sleeves draping elegantly across the arm and back were risqué without a hint of vulgarity.
Lapis and Lime Print
An injection of lapis and lime (which bordered on acid yellow) added a welcome pop of colour to the otherwise monochrome collection. Using lapis and lime together, not natural bedfellows, in such a limited colour palette was both bold and brave. Tie dye made an appearance; lapis, white and black tie dye circles formed organic patterns strategically placed to highlight the contours. Linear blurred prints in lime, black and white were combined with form sculpting draping. 3-D circle print placed over geometric grid’s fused with a Tron inspired print, created a distinctive, fashion-forward fabric.
Issa’s signature draping received an update this season, sheer panels revealed just enough of the body to appear sexy. Of course the classic Issa wrap dress was still present featuring a striking pattern on a sheer base. I do wish there were a few more print dresses without the sheer panels.
Back to Black
Black is never boring at Issa. The LBD was out in force, reworked with different textures to add dimension. Lace knits, appliqué tiles, embroidery anglaise, shawl sleeves and sheer panels created movement and depth. The black dress on the left was a highlight, also available in lapis.
Repeated patterns were created with fabrication and construction, multiple techniques used in a single garment ramped up the drama. Multicoloured glossy interlocking panels, printed laser-cut tiles and clear piping gave the collection a futuristic vibe. This sat alongside more organic fabrics like lace and embroidery anglaise.
And if you were wondering where those fabulous shoe boots are from, they’re Tabitha Simmons.
A huge thank you to Issa for the images.